глава в монографии

En

Springer Geology

ISSN:21979545

2024

10.1007/978-981-97-6627-7_28

Wave climate parameters determine the exploitation conditions of coastal infrastructure facilities and maximum loads on its. Investigation of statistical characteristics and spatial structure of wind waves in Koktebel Bay (the Black Sea, Crimea) was carried out in the paper using statistical analysis and mathematical modelling methods. Wave regime characteristic in the Koktebel Bay central part was obtained using retrospective calculation data of wind-wave parameters over the 1979–2020 period. Retrospective calculation was performed by V. V. Fomin in previous works on the basis of global atmospheric reanalysis ERA-Interim and ERA5 and numerical spectral SWAN model. It was found in the paper, that waves with significant wave heights less than 0.5 m and with mean periods range 2.5–3.0 s account for 55% of all cases. The repeatability of waves higher than 1.0 and 1.5 m is 14 and 5% correspondingly. Storm waves coming from the east and east-southeast are most probable in the study area. A long-term annual mean storm duration is 16.4 days while the total annual storm duration varies from 5.6 to 34.3 days. The longest storms occur from November to March. The heights, periods and wavelengths were determined in the system of calculated storms occurring once every n years. So, for the storm possible once every 25 years significant wave heights is 4.6 m, mean wave height is 2.6 m, mean period is 11.0 s, mean wave length is 108 m, wave height of 1% probability in the storm system is 5.4 m. For this storm, numerical simulation of wind wave fields was performed with high spatial resolution. It was found that for east, southeast, and south waves the configuration and details of the significant wave height fields are almost identical, starting at depths of 3 m and less due to refraction. Near the bottom at depths of 2–3 m, the amplitude of the velocity of orbital wave motions is 0.8–1.0 m/s.

Coastline of Crimea, Koktebel Bay, Numerical modeling, SWAN model, The Black Sea, Wave climate, Wind waves

2025-05-13 11:11:17 (квартал- I)